THE ISLANDS AND INHABITANTS OF TORRES STRAIT.*
By the Hon. JOHN DOUGLAS, C.M.G., F.R.G.S., Government
Resident, Thursday Island,
(Hon. Corresponding Member R.G.S.A.Q.).
Hon. John Douglas, who was received with cheers, said: I
have come here to-night to address to you a few words—an explanatory lesson I
may call it—upon the geography of Torres Strait, to explain these charts, and
to tell you something of the inhabitants of the Islands. Of course, any remarks
on an occasion of this kind must be very discursive, and of merely a popular
character. Early last year we had a visit from a deputation of very learned
men, headed by Dr. Haddon, of Cambridge, who have already taken a great deal of
interest in the inhabitants of Torres Strait. He was accompanied by five other
gentlemen, all of them of high standing and reputation in the Universities of
Cambridge and London, and these gentlemen spent nearly six months in the
islands of Torres Strait and on the shores of New Guinea. You can imagine that
such an important scientific deputation as that would deal most exhaustively
with the subject. It will be some time, no doubt, before we reap the benefit of
their researches. Indeed, Dr. Haddon told me that it would be possibly some
years before they could embody in a lasting form all the information that they
had obtained during their residence in Torres Strait. Of course, the arrival of
such a body of gentlemen was most agreeable to myself. I had instructions from
the late Mr. Byrnes to be as hospitable as possible to them, and do everything
I could to further their views. Unfortunately, at that time there was no
steamer stationed at Thursday Island, so that I was not able to give them the assistance
in that way which Dr. Haddon had expected. However, on Mr. Byrnes’ instructions
I was able to be useful to them in many ways, and the Government for the time
being, under Mr. Byrnes and on Mr. Byrnes’ recommendation, voted £100 towards
the expenses of the expedition. From that source, at any rate, we may expect a
very exhaustive statement in reference both to the islands and inhabitants of
Torres Strait. My purpose, however, is merely to give you more general ideas
than I daresay many of you have, of the geographical position of the Islands. I
have had two or three charts prepared on a somewhat larger scale than any of
the existing charts, in order to bring out the prominent places.
You see here (indicating) a chart with which I propose to
commence my remarks. It is an enlargement of the actual chart made by Capt.
Cook, in 1770; and the landmarks, and the places which are laid down in this
chart correspond with almost complete accuracy with all the observations of the
present day—(applause)—showing what a careful observer Captain Cook was. He
only spent a few days in passing through that portion of Northern Australia,
which is here indicated. All the names on the chart were given by Capt. Cook. I
need hardly remind you, I am sure, that Capt. Cook’s vessel, “The Endeavour,”
was on a reef to the South of Cooktown, near what is known as Cape Tribulation.
Cook named that Cape, because he got into trouble, and very serious trouble
too, there. He had to throw over his guns to lighten the vessel, and we know
now almost the exact position in which, in all probability, those guns may be
found. Still we have never been able to find them. Captain Mackay, our
Portmaster here, on several occasions I believe, has endeavoured to find these
guns, but without success. It has always been considered that it would be a
great triumph if we could pick up those guns. Probably by this time they are
well encrusted in coral. As you know, the story is a deeply interesting one.
“The Endeavour” was repaired in the river where the present town of Cooktown is
situated. By-and-bye I will show you a slide representation of the monument,
which has been erected to Cook, at Cooktown. However, when he had repaired his
ship at Cooktown he set forth to explore the inner passage if possible. He met
with very great difficulties. The account of his voyage is most interesting.
Pray let me invite you to look up the subject. It is quite as interesting as
any novel you can read. It is full of incidents. Capt. Cook I regard as one of
the greatest men of the 18th century (Applause.) He was certainly one of the
greatest navigators, and for us Australians, he was the greatest of all
explorers and of all discoverers. We venerate his name as one of those men
whose past we should revere, and who we should respect as one of the great men
of his time. He discovered for all practical purposes the Eastern coast of
Australia, and was our first and the greatest of all our explorers. He was a
great man in every sense of the term.
I would like to mention here I have found in your library—a
library which I observe is increasing every day—a book which was received
lately from Sir Henry Norman, a most valuable contribution in the shape of the
original journals which Capt. Cook kept. “Cook’s Voyages” were originally
compiled by Dr. Hawksworth, and there is a good deal of stuffing in them. Now,
we have recovered the originals of his journals; they are well worth looking
at, and any day, if you call on Mr. Thomson, I have no doubt that he will be
very happy to show you this book, which is of the very greatest interest. It is
published by the authority of the Admiralty, or at any rate is edited by Capt.
Wharton, who has in every respect faithfully recorded Cook’s own observations
and memoranda at the time when he made them.
Now having said this I will endeavour to pick up Capt.
Cook’s course from Lizard Island. We know that island very well. It is a high
island about 60 miles to the N.E. of Cooktown, and it was there that Capt. Cook
left the inner passage, and took the open sea. When he got to the open he found
his trouble had only just commenced. He found he was gradually being drifted in
towards the Great Barrier Reef. Before following him, let me say a word to you
about him. He was born of a Yorkshire peasant father and mother. He went to sea
as an able seaman, and it was only after many years of service that his great
qualities were found out by those under whom he served. He rose in rank and
gradually attained the rank of lieutenant. He is known as Capt. Cook, but he
never rose above the rank of lieutenant. Still, whatever his rank, he was a
great man in every sense of the term.
When he got outside, as I have said, he found he was
gradually being drifted in towards the Great Barrier Reef. He was beset with
calms and drifted on to this great reef. He speaks of the terrible anxiety
which he and those who were with him felt when they found themselves within 80
yards of the Barrier Reef. The huge breakers bursting upon this precipitous
rock. There was no bottom at 200 fathoms, and these huge precipitous rocks were
ahead, upon which the seas were breaking. Gradually, however, he was drifted
off again. I have experienced very much the same thing in the little “Cairns.”
On two or three occasions I have been very close, very uncomfortably close to
the Barrier Reef, and being gradually sucked in, in a calm toward the breakers,
but somehow or other we always got off. It was the same thing with Cook. He
found a small opening first. That opening was not sufficient. There was a
strong tide coming out, which apparently took him out to sea for about two or
three miles, and then he was sucked back towards the reef, and eventually got
through by what he termed a providential channel (Mr. Douglas now pointed out
on a chart the course followed by Cook).
This is Forbes Island, well-known to us now. Cook passed
outside Forbes Island. We invariably pass inside and round Piper light, one of
our lighthouses. Forbes Island is frequented by beachcombers, at any rate by
beche-de-mer men, and sometimes by natives. Then here is Cape Grenville, which
is a well marked point on the coast; and a bay called Margaret Bay, which the
natives have corrupted into Mackum Bay. At one time this was the habitat of a
very powerful aboriginal tribe. I am sorry to say there are not many of them
left now.
Passing Cape Grenville there is an opening through the
Barrier Reef at Rain Island. Capt. Blackwood, who was sent to find a convenient
passage, erected a beacon here. Rain Island is a rather inaccessible place. I
was there once when we were getting guano from it. Capt. Cook gives a full
description of Cape York and the islands in the neighbourhood, and then he
passed Possession Island, where he hoisted and saluted the flag. He felt
confident, when he had rounded Cape York, that he was clear of most of his difficulties,
which he was. He did not explore Prince of Wales Island. He passed through
Endeavour Straits, which he describes as about 10 leagues long, by 5 leagues
wide, and he tells us also that he saw natives on Possession Island. They came
down, apparently, in somewhat hostile form; they wore ornaments of pearl shell;
they had lances; and one was armed with a bow and arrow. We do not find any
bows and arrows in Torres Strait now, so far as the natives are concerned. When
you get to the coast of New Guinea there are plenty, and very beautiful and
interesting instruments they are, from an artistic point of view. The only
explanation I can offer of Capt. Cook seeing a native armed in this way, is
that the native was probably a visitor from the other side of the strait.
However, as I have said, he passed through Endeavour Straits
and close to Wallace Island. He then reached Booby Island, which was used for
some years as a kind of post office. There was no settlement on the Cape York
Peninsula, but there was a kind of cave on Booby Island, where provisions were
placed for shipwrecked mariners. There was a log-book kept on Booby Island, but
we have never recovered it. It was taken away by somebody, and there are
legends of it having been sent either to Brisbane or Sydney. Possibly it may be
found among the old records in the offices, either here or in Sydney. However,
that may be, inquiries have been made here, and they have failed to elicit any
record of the log that had been kept there. If it can be discovered anywhere it
would be a most interesting document. For many years it was used by the passing
ships as a means of recording their passages through Torres Strait.
Beyond that we come to Cook’s Shoal, and he then passed over
to Timor and Java. I do hope that some day or other a monument will be erected
to him on Possession Island, where he planted and where he saluted the British
flag to show that he had taken possession of the whole of the country from 38
par. of latitude to Cape York 10.55, in the name of his then Majesty George
III. He does not speak of New South Wales, but of New Wales. He named the whole
of that country New Wales, and he took possession of it on behalf of the King
who was then reigning, George III. Cook himself was never satisfied until he
found that there was a passage between Cape York and New Guinea. You know, a
good many years before that, about 170 years before, Torres had actually passed
through and got to Manila. He sailed away from South America right across to
Manila, which was then in possession of the Spaniards. How it is that his
account of his voyage did not transpire it is difficult to say. It is certain
that it did not transpire until many years afterwards, when it was raked up by
the Britishers when they were occupying Manila in the early years of George
III.’s reign. It would never have transpired probably if it had not been that,
when we were in possession of Manila, we discovered an authentic account of his
voyage—an account which he had addressed to the King of Spain. It has been said
that these discoveries were purposely kept secret by the Spanish Government,
because they were afraid of the depredations of our British buccaneers of those
days. There were some very queer characters abroad in those days—men who did
not hesitate to take any ship that they came across. Drake was one of them. It
is supposed that they kept this discovery secret in order that we might not
become acquainted with the results of Torres’ passage through the strait. Cook
writes on more than one occasion, that his great object was to discover whether
there was a passage between Australia and New Guinea. He was the first man that
really set out to demonstrate the fact that there was a channel between New
Guinea and Australia.
Now, here (indicating) in this map we have an illustration
on a somewhat larger scale than you could possibly have recourse to, of the
islands in the immediate vicinity of Cape York. Geologically these islands are
granitic—diorite and porphyry prevail. Some of them are rather high islands,
and are different altogether from some of the series of islands which we meet
with beyond. For instance, here is Naghir Island. That is the highest island
shown on this map. Mount Ernest, on that island, is about 800 ft. high, and is
a very prominent feature in the strait. Here is the Escape River, on the
mainland, where poor Kennedy was knocked on the head by the blacks. He saw
Albany Island, where he knew there was a vessel waiting for him. Kennedy,
however, was too late. The blacks were on him, and they killed him. Jacky
Jacky, who was with him, got away, and reported the matter, and the schooner
was enabled to go off and relieve those portions of the company who were still
alive at Weymouth Bay. Two only of that noble band of explorers were rescued. I
forget their names, but there was a botanist and another man. Months afterwards
two bodies of the remainder of Kennedy’s company, which had consisted of
thirteen men altogether, were found, and they were buried on the top of Albany
Island. Capt. Stanley, of the Rattlesnake, erected a monument on that island.
Albany Pass is recognised as very picturesque. It is exceedingly well surveyed,
and vessels now can pass through with certainty in spite of the strong tides
which prevail.
Poor Kennedy’s body never was recovered. Capt. Stanley put
up a wooden tablet—a good substantial wooden tablet—on which were recorded the
names and the fact of the burial of the remains of the ill-fated men which were
recovered. Unfortunately Albany Island is often swept by fire; and a fire came
along and burned this tablet. Mr. J. Jardine, who was the first Police
Magistrate, at Somerset, renewed it. Kennedy’s expedition was in 1848. It was
despatched from Sydney to explore the Cape York Peninsula. They, unfortunately,
landed too far down the peninsula, and they had to pass through an
impracticable country. Before they got through they were completely knocked up,
and they were not fit to encounter the difficulties and perils of a journey
through the peninsula. Jardine, as I have stated, renewed this tablet, and he
still lives at Somerset. Well, I ran through there four months ago, and I found
that this tablet—a large slab—was decaying gradually, and being burned, and I
therefore brought it in to Thursday Island.
Now, I want to enlist your sympathy, Sir Hugh, and the
sympathy and interest of the Royal Geographical Society of Queensland in this
matter. You could not do a better or a nobler act than assist, by your
prestige, and in any other way you can, in erecting a monument to these men—to
Kennedy and his companions. (Hear, hear.) He was one of the first of the
explorers. The result of his expedition was unfortunate, but he was a brave
man. He was like the volunteers now going to fight the Boers. He failed, unfortunately,
but he deserves that he should have a monument to perpetuate his memory for all
time, and the memory of his companions. (Applause.) It is not necessary to
spend much money. All I ask for is a mark or cairn of some kind, which could be
seen by all the vessels passing through Albany Pass. I have no doubt that the
Government will assist in the object, but I want the Royal Geographical Society
of Queensland to take this matter up. It will be responded to, I am sure, in
New South Wales, and I believe throughout Australia. Kennedy was an explorer
who deserves, especially at the hands of those who are interested in that part
of the world, to have some mark or memorial of his achievements. I am quite
sure that with your assistance, and possibly with the assistance of the
Government, we shall be able to erect a fitting memorial for this brave man.
(Applause.)
Somerset at one time was supposed to be a rather important
place. The whole of the trade and shipping were concentrated there for some
time. The reason why it was abandoned was that the tide was extremely strong,
and large steamers never felt comfortable when they were anchored in the
passage. They often had to put down two anchors, and even then they did not
always hold. I am not certain that the selection of Thursday Island was a very
wise one. I believe myself that at that time good anchorage could have been
found in one of these bays on the mainland not subject to the difficulties
experienced at Somerset. If that had been done settlement would have remained
on the mainland, which would have been a great thing. It is just possible that
in some wild flight of imagination we might have had a railway. In fact a
railway was deliberately talked of at one time, and Somerset would have been
the point of departure for the East. When the settlement was changed to
Thursday Island we had to give up all hopes of this Northern railway to the
Cape York Peninsula.
The shellers moved from Somerset to the Prince of Wales
Group, and it was thought most prudent for the Government to follow the
settlement, and the Police Magistrate and resident officials were moved to
Thursday Island. It became my duty when in office down here to effect this
change, and the change to Port Kennedy was made at the instigation of Capt.
Heath. On the ordinary charts you cannot see Thursday Island at all. There is a
group of islands called after the Prince of Wales, and Thursday Island is a mere
spot among them. Port Kennedy, situated on Thursday Island, is surrounded by an
archipelago of islands. It is virtually surrounded, and the grouping of these
islands constitutes a fine anchorage. The actual area of Thursday Island is
very small—I think it is less than 900 acres altogether. That sounds very
small, but it is wonderful when you come to go into details, what a large space
900 acres really is. We, who are accustomed in our great Western country, to
regard 9,000 acres as a mere flea-bite, and 90,000 acres as not a very large
area, cannot view an area of 900 acres as of much importance. There is a
population of about 1,500 on it, and that occupies about a third of the island.
There is space still for ten times the population.
The island, as you know, is the centre of the pearl-shelling
industry. Prince of Wales Island is about twelve miles square. At one time
there was a very formidable tribe on it, numbering about 400 or 500. The
navigators in the time of “The Fly” and “The Rattlesnake” speak of them as very
formidable. Their number does not exceed 100 altogether now. Since I came down
I have heard of the death of their chief, who was familiarly known as
Tarbucket. He was a very portly man, and sometimes used to inherit my garments,
when I had done with them, and the consequence was that there were people who
rather confused his identity with mine. This was a source of amusement to some
of the inhabitants, but when they saw his visage, I hope they saw the
distinction between us.
Horn Island is the seat at present of our hopes of the
future, so far as gold is concerned. The position of the gold diggings is close
to what is called Horn Hill. As to the prospects, it is impossible for me to
say what they will eventually turn out. Some say it is no good, and others say
it promises very well indeed. At any rate the Melbourne Syndicate now working
it, are spending a lot of money in putting up expensive machinery and so on,
and they hope for a good return. Their assays and tests are sufficiently
encouraging for them to speak of them as indicating that they will make a good
thing out of it. I hope they will, because they have spent a lot of money on
it. They have about forty men working, and in the course of a month or so they
hope to commence crushing. Of course, it will be a great help to us if it turns
out well, because we desire above all things to be supported by a European
population, and of course the presence of gold diggers there will contribute
very much to our advancement in every way.
On Thursday Island, as you know, there is a most varied
population. Nearly every nationality is represented there. The Europeans, I am
happy to say, still head the list in spite of everything; and the Japanese come
next. Then, of course, there are a great many working on the boats. The
population of the island is about 1,500, and the population working in the
shelling boats a little over 2,000. I will not trouble you with the details of
the statistics, but I would like to say that from a strategic point of view
Thursday Island is regarded of very great importance. Some people, however, run
away with the idea that the guns in the forts completely command the Straits.
That is a fallacy. The fort was never placed there with any idea that it would
command the Straits. A man-of-war could, of course, come through Endeavour
Straits. Navigation is somewhat difficult in consequence of the shoals and
reefs there, but still it is quite possible to make your way through, and any
foreign man-of-war could come through there. The course which is generally
followed by all our steamers from the westward is through the Prince of Wales
Channel and outside of Hammond Island. Steamers drawing more than 17 or 18 feet
of water all have to come through the Prince of Wales Channel and come under
Goode Island, and those drawing less than 22 feet come to Thursday Island, and
those which draw more drop anchor at the Black Rock.
Our jetty at Thursday Island will not admit of vessels
berthing there which draw more than 21 feet. However, there are many ways of
getting past, but Thursday Island is a good strategical point because it has a
convenient harbour, and coal can be obtained there, and in the event of war it
is a place within sight of which all vessels must pass; and no vessel really
could pass without it being known. There are passages through which foreign
vessels could pass if it were necessary.
Booby Island is about 18 miles West of Goode Island, and we
are not connected by cable with it, though I think we ought to be. Here is
Mount Adolphus Island. It stands about 500 feet above the level of the sea. It
is a rather picturesque island, but viewed from a distance it presents the
appearance of a flat-topped island. Near by is the scene of the terrible wreck
of the “Quetta,” which all mourn so much, as we lost many dear friends among
the passengers. Most of those who were saved were taken to the Little Adolphus.
These islands are strongly marked, and can be seen by everybody coming up the
Strait.
Here is the Banks Group, an important group similar from a
geological point of view to the Prince of Wales, primitive rock diorite. Three
of the group are Moa, Badu and Mabuiag, and probably the last is of the most
importance. There is a population there of about 250 natives and a few South
Sea Islanders. They have lately been very fortunate. They have learned, I am
glad to say, to work on their own account. They owe this to the Rev. Mr.
Walker, a missionary, who was established among them for a short time. He
taught them how to co-operate and work together in such a way that they could
buy their own luggers. There had been attempts to buy luggers on previous
occasions, but they failed, to a certain extent because when they had worked
off a certain proportion of the price they got tired; and as they did not pay
up, the persons from whom they had bought came down and took possession again.
However, thanks to Mr. Walker, a different spirit came over them, and they have
been able to acquire their own luggers and work on their own account.
They were fortunate in one respect. A short time ago they
found a lot of derelict copper. This brought them several hundreds of pounds,
made them rich men, and helped them to buy their luggers. They are allowed to
work among these reefs without licenses in their own fishing ground. They are
rather lazy, but on the whole they are interesting people, and their village is
a very orderly one. There are some beautiful cocoanut groves immediately in the
vicinity of the village, but the island itself is not very fertile, and there
are only a few patches that can be called arable, and there they cultivate
their sweet potatoes and bananas.
I am trying to get a teacher, either male or female, to go
there and help in the instruction of their children. There are nearly 100
children on Mabuiag Island. The people are very anxious that their children
should learn English, and they desire them to learn English because they know
their prospects will be materially assisted by their knowledge of English. I am
trying, as I said, to secure a volunteer either male or female. I sometimes
think if I could secure a good woman of experience and enthusiasm I should
prefer it. A good school ma’am while teaching the young children would thereby
obtain an influence upon the people. Whether we shall be successful in that I
don’t know, but I hope we shall.
At Mabuiag there is a healthy population, and it is not
decreasing. There are some South Sea Islanders among them, and some have
married Mabuiag women, so that on the whole the population is not
retrogressive. They should be looked after, because we may get many useful
workers in the Strait from the natives of this island.
Badu is a much larger island, but the population is not so
large as that of Mabuiag. Still, the people are very interesting, and I have
lately managed to establish a school there also. The population of Badu at the
present time is scarcely 200. They are nice people; but they are rather lazy.
There is a good deal of fair timber on it. The people make use of the native
yam, which grows rather abundantly, and is known as the Boer. It is an
excellent yam, very much superior to most of the yams I know of. I sent some of
them to Captain Pennefather to see if he could get them to grow at St. Helena.
Then here is Green Island, which is very much resorted to by
the pearl shellers, who pursue their calling on what is known as “the old
ground.” There they can always make sure of getting a certain quantity of
shells, and the extent of the area is very considerable. I am sure it is much
larger than is at present known, but the difficulty about going further is that
the luggers don’t like to go too far from the mainland. If it blows they come
into Badu or Green Island. Not long ago a change was made in the direction of
moving the village to a position called Greenwell, and at that place there are
a good many houses built.
Moa Island is also a very fine island—a large island with
great diversity in its area. There is a high mountain on it called Mount
Augustus, about 1,600 feet high. There is a good deal of scrub, and also a good
deal of good pasture land. There are not many natives on Moa. I believe in the
old times they were decimated. At one time the population was much larger, but
a warlike tribe famous in the old times fought the Moa people, and cut them up
to such an extent that they never recovered. I don’t think the population at
the present time is more than 40 or 50 at the outside.
Here is another island called Naghir, occupied by a South
Sea Islander called Jimmie Samoa, a very big man, weighing about 20 stone, and
he has a large family. There are only about half-a-dozen natives upon it. It is
a very picturesque island, with some good land on it. Jimmie has some very good
cultivated garden ground. I may say that a question of nationality arose the
other day with regard to him. I have known him as an inhabitant of the island
ever since I have been there, and it seems rather hard that he should be
deprived of getting a license because he does not happen to be a British
subject. However, it was held the other day that he was not a British subject,
but a Samoan. Still he has some grown-up sons, and they are certainly British
subjects; these people here are British subjects, and they are entitled to the
rights of British subjects; and I hope we shall see that they secure them.
The native-born population are British subjects. They are
civilised people; they are being educated, and they are entitled, and I say,
should be treated as British subjects. Still they are not enumerated even in
the census. I hope that in any future census notice will be taken of them. They
marry and they are given in marriage. They live in good houses. They live on a
vegetable diet and fish. They are human beings; they are our own flesh and
blood; they are born under our jurisdiction; and they are entitled, I maintain,
to the privileges we enjoy. Of course there is a very great distinction between
the natives of the islands of Torres Strait and the natives of Australia.
I think even the natives of Australia deserve to be
enumerated in the census, and those of Torres Strait should certainly be
enumerated as part of our population. Still there is a decided distinction
between the two people. The natives of the islands of Torres Strait are capable
of exercising all the rights of British citizens, and they ought to be regarded
as such. They are a growing and intelligent people, and they want to be
educated. They want to be educated even more than our people. They show an inclination
for education which often exceeds that of our own white population. This is not
an extreme statement. It is a true statement, which I can prove by facts, and I
am quite sure that anyone who saw these people would be quite convinced that
what I have said is true. (Applause.)
Now, as another indication of the civilisation of these
people I must not forget to mention that they observe our tactics in training
soldiers. Most of them have visited Thursday Island at some time or other, and
have seen our soldiers drilling at the barracks. This struck them as
exceedingly delightful and interesting. They have got together on Mabuiag, for
instance, a force of 20 men, put them into a uniform of their own, and made
them to look as like soldiers as they could. They got a few wrinkles from the
way our sergeants set about training their men, and amongst them is a man who
can put them through their facings almost as well as the sergeants themselves.
In this way they have shown their desire for discipline and training, and I
have not the slightest doubt that if it be necessary, from the natives of
Mabuiag, Moa and Badu you could raise an auxiliary force which would be very
useful. They are men fond of that sort of thing. They look upon it as a kind of
play, but they are fine men, capable of hard work, and they could pull about
the guns; and there is not the slightest doubt they could be used with great
benefit if we were put to the necessity of employing them.
That is an indication of what these people are capable of.
Having seen our soldiers drilling, they are anxious to drill themselves, and
they have actually managed amongst themselves to put together a force of men
which is very presentable.
The map I have here illustrates the whole of Torres Strait.
Formerly when a man got away to one of these islands there was no law to touch
him. It became necessary to extend our boundary, and when I was in office—I
think in 1876—we got a bill passed which authorised us to extend our maritime
boundary. The Great Barrier Reef was then made the eastern boundary, and it was
extended so as to include the islands along the coast of New Guinea. There is a
popular belief that the whole of this area is British territory, but that is a
mistake. It was stated, I think, during the controversy going on about the
Behring Strait that John Bull had annexed not only the islands and the whole of
Torres Strait but that he was going to bar the passage of Torres Strait against
the rest of the world. Of course he could not do anything of the kind. All the
islands within the boundary were annexed, but we did not attempt to annex the
ocean. We have not attempted to do that yet; and I do not think John Bull will
ever attempt it.
However this must not be forgotten, that in this space there
is very little ocean, where there is no island and when we annex an island that
means we annex everything within three miles of that island, so that if you
annex all the islands and claim jurisdiction over the sea within three miles of
each island there is not much left which can be regarded as the open sea.
(Laughter.) It is a distinction possibly which may be said to be without a
difference. At any rate we do not presume to annex the ocean, whatever we may
have done with regard to land annexation.
All these islands have been taken in, and are now Queensland
territory. I will just go over a few of them. The Three Sisters are here, where
we have had a good many wrecks. I don’t know how it is, but somehow they seem
to attract vessels in an extraordinary way. Possibly it is because vessels can
go ashore so easily there. They are a comfortable distance from Thursday
Island. We have had several wrecks there, and one of the last was an Italian
vessel. We went out to see it, and we found the vessel comfortably berthed on a
reef—a very nice, safe, coral reef; and we thought there would not be much
difficulty in getting the vessel off. The captain and all his crew had deserted
her, and declared that she was abandoned, and a total wreck. We went out, and
with very little assistance got her off, and she sailed away after a few
necessary repairs. Unfortunately, she got ashore again in a most extraordinary
way, and she was finally lost, and I believe paid for by the insurance company.
How that may be, I don’t know, but at any rate that is part of the history of
that vessel to which I refer. It is not libellous to say that there is a good
deal which can be hardly explained, and the circumstances are such that there
must have been some extraordinary fatality connected with that vessel, and with
these Three Sisters, which on various occasions have attracted vessels to be
wrecked in some way or another.
Then here is Cocoanut Island; it is rather a landmark. It is
called Cocoanut Island because cocoanuts do grow there. I am trying to get
cocoanuts grown systematically, and people are beginning to see that they are a
good stand-by. But I would have you understand that it is not so easy a thing
to cultivate cocoanuts. It is said that all these islands might be covered, and
it would be very pleasant to navigators if they were. All I can say is, that it
is not so. Cocoanuts, like everything else, require lots of attention for the
first two or three years of their lives; and if they are not attended to the
probabilities is that they will not reach maturity.
We have now on several islands people who are really doing a
little in the way of cultivating. York Island, for instance, which is inhabited
by a wonderful individual. His name, or rather what he is always called, is
Yankee Ned. He is an American, and his real name is Moseby. He is an
intelligent man, and has for many years lived on York Island. He has made lots
of money, but he is one of those unfortunate men, who, as soon as they make
money, go into Thursday Island and spend it. He lives on this island. Lately he
has taken to raising cocoanuts, and now has at least 500 cocoanuts growing
there and coming to maturity. Somewhat the same may be said of a man on Warrior
Island. This is a famous fishing ground, and there has been an immense quantity
of very good shell taken from that reef. The island was once the centre of a
very powerful tribe. There is a story that at one time they came out and
attacked “The Fly.” They certainly attacked a man of war that was surveying.
Now they are reduced to very few. There is one fine fellow amongst them who is
the representative of the old Warrior Tribe. They were a very powerful tribe,
and now they are almost all gone. The few that are left live on Turtleback
Island.
Here let me point out to you three islands of a different
character altogether—Darnley, Murray, and Stephens. They are of volcanic
origin. Here they grow an abundance of cocoanuts. They are perfect gardens, and
the people on them live entirely by what they grow. They have good houses.
Murray Island, as you may observe, is right on the Barrier Reef. There is a
very good entrance here—the entrance for the great North-east Channel, which is
near Bramble Cay. I could tell you stories about that, but I have not time
to-night. This is the entrance all the sailing ships go through. It is the
great entrance for all ships that pass through the North-east passage.
Now, I come to Saibai. I was there a few weeks ago, and left
a schoolmaster there. Since that he has got together a school of 90 children,
all of whom are keen to learn the English language; and who are now learning
it. The Saibai people, even in my time, were absolute savages, and now they are
amongst the most enterprising and industrious of the whole of the Torres Strait
people. They have built a church. There has been an epidemic, I may say, in
church building. It is wonderful what money they have collected for the
purpose. They got the timber from New Guinea, and they have built it all
themselves, and purchased iron for the roof. They have put up a very good
structure, and it will hold as many people as this little hall (the School of
Arts’ Hall), and they are very proud of it.
Saibai is a long island, swampy right through, with a fringe
of cocoanuts right round it. Yet it is not unhealthy, in spite of that. It is a
curious thing that Cornwallis Island, close to Saibai, which stands out very
high, and has a granite peak, and you would think was healthy, is not so; for
some unaccountable reason it is not healthy. Well, Saibai is a prosperous
island. They have now bought two luggers of their own, which they have paid
for, and they are working on their own account. They have a shrewd idea of the
value of money, and they will not part with anything without getting very good
value. I think that is a good sign. It is an indication of civilization.
(Laughter.) It is undoubtedly.
I used to think in New Guinea, where I was, that when they
once began to traffic and exchange their shell for tobacco, etc., that they
would progress, and when I found that they were dealing with actual coin
instead of the barbarous exchange of tobacco, trade, etc. I said to myself that
was a step on the upward grade. (Sir Hugh Nelson: So it is.) Now they
understand the value of money and coin, and they prefer to go into the stores
and price what they want, and buy and pay for it.
Here is Boigu. It ought to belong to New Guinea. There has
been a good deal of discussion as to what should be the maritime boundary
between us. Here is another island, Deliverance Island, which is in Queensland
territory. It is a curious low little island but you see it a long way off,
because there are a lot of Wangi trees upon it. They bear a very edible kind of
plum, and they are largely eaten by the natives. In fact they are a very nice
fruit for anybody, and are appreciated as a delicacy, much in the same way as
the Torres Strait pigeon. In the Wangi season the Torres Strait pigeons come
and feed upon them. Talking about birds, when I was last on Saibai there were
immense numbers of ducks and native companions. Just at sundown the geese came
across in thousands, and fine large birds they are. The natives shoot them.
They have their guns now, and they get powder and shot. At one time I used to
supply them with cartridges.
At that time there was a great scare about the Togari men,
who came from Dutch New Guinea and along the coast. They were great fighters,
and head hunters, and they carried off a good many heads in the old times. When
I went there I supplied these Saibai men with ball cartridge wherewith to
encounter the Togari men if it were necessary. That ceased to be the case after
Sir William MacGregor had dealt with them. After Sir William had met them, the
Togari men thought it better not to come over again; and I don’t think they
will ever trouble us very much in the future. They were formidable, and they
may still be, but at any rate, for the last few years we have heard nothing of
them; and I don’t think the Saibai people now think it necessary to be on the
look out for them.
Deliverance Island is a curious little island—a sandbank
swarming with turtle, and there are some very high Wangis there. When I visited
it last it was inhabited by five European sailors, who lived most luxuriously.
They did nothing. They had ducks galore, fowls galore, besides turtle whenever
they liked to catch them, and they cultivated sweet potatoes and bananas.
Altogether they were most luxurious dogs. I don’t know whether they are there
now, but Deliverance Island has often been resorted to by white men,
beach-combers, who live idle lives of that kind.
Just let me say a few words about the proposed maritime
boundary, which has been talked about a good deal. It has been proposed that a
portion of the islands included in our present boundary should be given to New
Guinea; but whether that will come about I don’t know. The proposed boundary
would pass through Deliverance and Turn Again Islands, and so on through Moon
Pass on the Warrior Reef to Dalrymple Island, and thence to Bramble Cay. This
is contended for by Sir William MacGregor, on the ground that the old fishing
ground belonging to the natives of New Guinea should be preserved for them, and
there is a good deal to be said in favour of it. Of course, the people of
Thursday Island do not look favourably upon the transfer of any of the islands.
They think it would injure their interests. I do not think it would, because, I
think, whatever is got from Torres Strait would go to Thursday Island to be
exported. I am quite sure it is not fair that Saibai, which is only a mile or
two from New Guinea, should be Queensland territory and not New Guinea. It
ought to be transferred to New Guinea, and I think on the whole the natives
would be better off if that were done. The administration of New Guinea is, of
course, based on the principle of taking care of the natives, and doing as well
for them as possible. I am, therefore, an advocate for an alteration of
boundary, whenever it may come about.
Some of you may not know what has been done towards the
settlement of New Guinea. All along here (indicating) anybody may live as
safely as in Queensland, but when you get up towards the mouth of the Fly
River, the condition of the natives is just what it was a hundred years ago.
There has been no change. They are as savage and as dangerous as ever they
were; and if there are any explorers here to-night, or anyone who is ambitious
to become a great explorer, here is an opening. All that country is absolutely
unknown. We know scarcely anything of the inland country here or of the rivers,
and the people are as they were a hundred years ago.
Dowdi has a good deal in its future. There is a good deal of
fair country there, and the natives are tolerably friendly.
Daru is the headquarters of the New Guinea
Administration—that is for British Western New Guinea. It is a rich island.
That is as far as I can take you now. In conclusion, I would again assure you
that the people in Torres Strait desire your sympathy and help to secure to
them the rights which are their own, which ought to belong to them, and which I
hope some day will belong to them. (Prolonged applause.)
“The Islands and Inhabitants of
